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Old photographs Old photos of Moville and the surrounding areas.

Maps Old maps of the two parishes in Moville.

Books Read a history of Moville, and see other references to the area.

Lewis' Topographical Dictionary Extracts from the Topographical Dictionary published in 1837

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Moville.Records

A cottage at Carricknock

Inishowen.Its History, Traditions, & Antiquities

Chapter XV — Lower Moville.

From the parish of Culdaff we will proceed to Lower Moville. For a part of the way the road passes along Brady Glen, which, in ancient times, belonged to the M'Dermotts, who, in the Annals of the Four Masters, are styled the lords of Bradyglen, and the princes of hospitality. There is a bridge in this glen named Friar's Bridge, from a tradition that a friar was drowned in crossing the river at that place. I will take occasion as we travel along this road to relate the following story, and before I begin I simply say that every item it contains is perfectly true. Comment would be superfluous; let the facts speak for themselves.

It was a cold day in December. The wind blew from the north ....... Click here to read more.

Until 1788 Moville formed but one parish, but it was then divided into the parishes of Upper and Lower Moville. In the Roman Catholic division, however, the whole as yet forms but one parish. Lower Moville is bounded on the north by the Atlantic Ocean, on the east by Lough Foyle, and on the west by Culdaff. It contains 15,950 acres. Population, 5,192. Much of the land is cold and of rather inferior quality ; the inhabitants engage themselves with fishing fully as much as agriculture. The coast of the parish, which extends from Glenagivney on the north-west around Inishowen Head and along the Foyle to the town of Moville, is singularly bold and rocky. Doyle, in his Tours in Ulster, says "Inishowen Head is a place of great interest, and commands magnificent coast and sea views.

From this the coast runs westward to Culdaff Bay, and for about eight miles is much varied by steep and lofty cliffs, against which the Atlantic breaks with great fury. The water is very deep, from ten to fifteen fathoms up to the base of the cliff's. The same remarkable variation in the ebb and flow of the tide, observed on the coast of Antrim, occurs here also."I may state that the tides move similarly from Bushmills in Antrim to Bloody Foreland Point in Donegal. Mr. Doyle goes on to say "Outside, a line east and west, distant two miles from the shore, the line of flood sets east six hours, and ebbs six hours to the west; but within that line the stream turns at half flood to the westward, and at half ebb to the eastward, a phenomenon of great advantage in navigating this coast."

Around Moville the land is in a good state of cultivation, and there are some handsome residences in the neighbourhood. Between Shrove Head on the one side and the point of Magilligan on the Londonderry coast on the other, is the entrance to Lough Foyle. This extensive inlet is admittedly one of the best of our Irish harbours. It is remarkably well sheltered, especially from the westerly winds, and affords safe anchorage for ships of the largest tonnage in all kinds of weather. It is to the facilities for trade which this lough affords, seconded by the energy and enterprise of her inhabitants, that the city of Derry owes her increasing commercial prosperity.

The channel which lies near the Inishowen coast is all along indicated by buoys and lights, and at Shrove Head are lighthouses which have been constructed by the Ballast Board to guard against shipwrecks on the "Tonns" sandbanks - which lie beyond the entrance to the lough, and which will be noticed by and by. Herrings, sole, salmon, and oysters are met with abundantly in Lough Foyle, but the Hon. the Irish Society of London claim a several fishery and right to every living thing within it, nay, to the very mud and sand which lie at its bottom, to the exclusion of all interference on the part of the inhabitants of its shores. This anomalous claim is founded on a Charter, which, they say, was granted them by James I., and renewed at the Restoration.

Convenient to the ruins of the old castle of the O'Dohertys at the northern extremity of the parish, the English have erected a fortress, and this, with a battery at Magilligan on the opposite side, commands the entrance to the lough. The Greencastle fortress consists of a battery, tower, and magazine, and there is accommodation within it for forty-two men and four officers. The Magnetic Telegraph Company have an office at Greencastle, from which messages are transmitted to any part of the United Kingdom, &c. Here are also stations of the Pilots and Tide-waiters of the port of Derry, and a Coastguard station; there is also a station of the Coastguards at Port Kennego.

The following fairy tale is related regarding these coasts; the towns are even yet considered "gentle."

Manannan M'Lir, the Irish Neptune, lies buried in the Tonn Banks .....Click here to read more.

It was a favourite maxim with the Danes to take, and, if possible, keep possession of the principal inlets and harbours, in order to keep up communication with their base of supplies, and when beaten on shore to have their ships as places of refuge to retreat to. We accordingly find them often appearing in Lough Foyle. In 864 they were here defeated by Aldh Finn-liath, monarch of Ireland; in the year 893 Armagh was plundered by the Danes of Lough Foyle; in A.D., 919, a fleet of 32 ships landed in Lough Foyle, and Inishowen was plundered by them; but they were checked by Fearghal, who slew the crew of one of the ships, broke the ship itself, and carried off the goods; and more of them were broken on the rocks and sand banks. Lough Foyle attracts notice at a period somewhat later. The annalists say that in 1248 O'Neill, Lord of Tyrone, brought small boats from Lough Foyle into Magh Ithe, and across the country till he reached Lough Erne. In explanation of this passage O'Donovan says the ancient Irish gave the name of Lough Foyle to the whole extent of water from the mouth of the lake to Lifford. Magh Ithe, he says, lies to the west of what is now called the river Foyle — that is, the plain which extends from Derry to Lifford on the west of the Foyle.

The town of Moville belongs to the parish of Lower Moville, and is situated sixteen miles north of Londonderry. It was formerly called Bunafoible, a word signifying the foot of the parish or congregation. The situation of Moville is very favourable, standing as it does on the shore of the lough, and sheltered from the north and westerly winds by that high ridge of land which runs behind it towards Greencastle. Casting his eye across the glassy surface of the lough the traveller has a pleasing view of the fertile districts of Myroe and the vale of the Faughan, in the county Derry, backed by the mountains of Benbraddagh and Beneveny. Moville has of late grown rapidly into importance, and every encouragement for its improvement and extension has been given by its spirited proprietor, the Rev. Mr. Montgomery.

The road from Derry to Greencastle passes through it, and at the centre of the town another road strikes off from it at right angles leading to Culdaff, Malin, Carndonagh, &c. The town consists of a square and four principal streets, and there are, besides, many elegant villas and bathing lodges adjoining the town and along the shore. Piers, projecting into deep water, have been constructed for vessels calling here. Steamers from Derry, Glasgow, Liverpool, Portrush, &c., call daily, and the vessels of the Montreal Ocean Steam Navigation Company, trading between Liverpool and Portland, U.S., call weekly on their outward voyage to receive mails and passengers for the several States and cities of North America. One of their homeward bound also calls weekly for the delivery of mails and passengers. In addition to these the vessels of a line lately established by the Messrs. Handyside & Co., of Glasgow, also call here weekly. This is the Anchor Line, and promises to be very popular. Moville has long been highly esteemed as a watering-place, and all available accommodation sought after by bathers in the summer; and though other bathing-places have lately attracted attention, the people of Moville may, by a scale of moderate charges, and by that courtesy to visitors for which they are remarkable, long continue to maintain the pre-eminence of their town as a fashionable bathing-place.

The population in 1861 was 897. There is a weekly market, (Thursday) and fairs are held on the 28th of January, April, July, and October, for the sale of cattle, sheep, and pigs. A large export trade is done with Glasgow and Liverpool in fish, fowl, eggs, and butter. It has a Constabulary station, which belongs to the district of Carn, a Post-office, Dispensary, and Loan Fund, and Petty Sessions are held in it on every fourth Tuesday.

The houses in Moville are new and well built, but the only edifice that can prefer any claim to beauty or architectural proportion is the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy. It stands on a rising ground at the east side of the town. The sight is truly picturesque. Below are the broad blue waves of the Foyle, decked with shipping of every class, from the American liner to the smallest fishing boat; in the distance you can see Magilligan and the Derry mountains ; in the background the Inishowen mountains rise their grey heads high into the sky. The Convent grounds are spacious, have an extensive frontage, and are carefully tended. The schoolrooms are large, lofty, and well ventilated. To the Convent is attached a pretty large chapel for the use of the community, and which affords the townspeople an opportunity of hearing a daily mass. The eastern window is large, and displays much artistic skill. To kneel before the altar during the solemn stillness of the night, and behold the light of the silvery moon streaming through the window, you are reminded of Scott's description of Melrose:

"The moon on the east oriel shone,
Through slender shafts of shapely stone,
By foliaged tracery combined ;
Thou wonld'st have thought some fairy's hand,
'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand,
In many a freakish knot had twined;
Then framed a spell when the work was done,
And changed the willow-wreaths to stone."

The education which the good sisters impart does not consist of an empty catalogue of puerilities, which too often constitute the education of the world. Education does not consist in reading, writing, arithmetic, music, and the like. These are mere mechanical arts. They form a part of the grand educational system, but it is only a subordinate part. Religion should be the beginning, middle, and end of all educational systems. Such is the education which the good Sisters of Mercy impart. Religion, however, is not the chief object of the institution.

Behind the Convent, and at a short distance, there is a large well-conducted National School. All these buildings have been erected within the past few years, and form only one of the many religious and educational establishments that have been founded by the fostering hand of his Lordship, the Most Rev. Dr. Kelly.

Of the elegant seats along the Foyle at Moville is Ravenscliff, the sea-side residence of the Very Rev. Dr. Devlin, D.D. It is situated near the water's edge, and behind it there is a beautiful grove. The gardens are surrounded by high walls, and contain graperies and glasshouses, in which the rarest and choicest exotics are brought to admirable perfection. The whole are attended to by a skilful gardener, who seems well practised in his art. I must not omit to mention that there is a courteous and obliging housekeeper who kindly showed me through the premises.

The living is a rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop of Derry ; the Rector's net income is £319. The church, which was built in 1782, is a small neat edifice, and has a tower on its eastern front. It stands on an eminence convenient to the shore of Lough Foyle. Besides the Parish Church, there is another small church, which has lately been erected in the town of Moville. There are two Roman Catholic Chapels, one at Ballybrack, the other at Ballynacrey ; and National Schools at Glenagiveney, Shrove, Moville, and Gulladuff.

Contiguous to Moville is also the residence of his Lordship, the Most Rev. Dr. Kelly, Catholic Bishop of Derry. Moville too is distinguished as being the birth-place of the illustrious Sir Robert Montgomery. The principal seats in the parish of Lower Moville are Moville Lodge, Gortgowan, Ballybrack House, Drumawier House, Leckemy House, Drumagessin House, Ravenscliff, and Rosebank, the residence of Pechell Irvine, Esq., J.P.

The following story has appeared in another form in a Dublin periodical:

The lovers of Moville .... Click here to read more.

In a former chapter allusion has been made to the erection of Greencastle, and what is there stated is given on the authority of Lewis. On reference, however, to the Annals of the four Masters we find another account respecting it. It is here stated that in 1305 Richard Burke, the Red Earl of Ulster, erected it to subdue the O'Neills and O'Donnells, and check the incursions of the Scots. It was then called New Castle. In 1332 Walter, son of Sir Walter Burke, was taken prisoner by the Dun Earl of Ulster, William Burke, and imprisoned here, where he was starved to death by order of the Earl. On that account the Earl was murdered the following year at Carrickfergus, in the 21st year of his age. He left an only daughter, who was married to Lionel, son of Edward III of England, and this prince was then created in her right Earl of Ulster and Lord of Connaught, and these titles were enjoyed by different princes of the Royal blood, until at length they became, in the person of Edward IV., the special inheritance of the Crown of England. On the Earl's death the chiefs of the junior branches of the Burke family seized upon his estates in Connaught. One of these was Sir Ulick Burke, the ancestor of the Earls of Clanrickard, and another, Sir Edmund, the progenitor of the Viscounts of Mayo. The Duke of Clarence laid claim to their possessions, but the Government appears to have been too weak to assert the authority of the English laws, and the territories of the Burkes were suffered to remain with them. In 1555 Greencastle was demolished by Calvagh O'Donnell, at the head of an army of mercenary Scots.

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